tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post3060923332967318568..comments2022-07-21T15:38:06.653+12:00Comments on Inside Classic Audio: Philips CD150Antonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-91498493399145341512016-05-14T06:52:48.911+12:002016-05-14T06:52:48.911+12:00Hi Anton,
No more questions. I have used enough o...Hi Anton, <br />No more questions. I have used enough of your time!<br />I just want to say, thank you. I have completed the cap replacement on the CD150 using your advice. Firstly it works and secondly it sounds so much better than before.<br />Thanks and best wishes,<br />Martinderryvolgiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06139226275825792280noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-61852734395984017442016-05-08T21:23:07.880+12:002016-05-08T21:23:07.880+12:00We're probably both right.
Philips made many ...We're probably both right.<br /><br />Philips made many changes to component values during production of these early CD players. Sometimes they would use a revision letter system, and you'd see revisions going as high as K, each the same PCB with different modifications and component values. I'd stick to what's already there with the version of the board you have.Antonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-70081487021909575982016-05-08T21:17:15.875+12:002016-05-08T21:17:15.875+12:00Glad to hear your repair was successful.
In gener...Glad to hear your repair was successful.<br /><br />In general I'd avoid replacing a capacitor with another of a lower voltage rating, unless there is a very good reason. In this case 2414 is on the output of a 18V regulator, which sounds okay, but if the regulator fails (which can happen) it could be exposed to a 33V unregulated rail. With variation, that's too high for a 35V rated part. I'd stick to 40 or 50V rated part. 33 or 47uF are both fine.<br /><br />Remember that an electrolytic capacitor will explode if exposed to voltages much over rated. The difference in cost between a 35 and 50V rated electrolytic is minimal, so it's worth being cautious and knowing a failed regulator won't lead to a bang.Antonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-28865420036151096942016-04-29T07:24:42.116+12:002016-04-29T07:24:42.116+12:00Hi Anton,
Thanks for your earlier advice on getti...Hi Anton,<br /><br />Thanks for your earlier advice on getting started. Based on that I am practising on a CD150 before working on my Arcam Alpha Plus. I have replaced all the caps on the servo board and, it works!!<br /><br />I would be very grateful for advice on a capacitor replacement/substitution on the main board. 2414 is 33uF 40volt. Would it be ok to replace it with a 47uF 35volt?<br /><br />Cheers,<br />Martinderryvolgiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06139226275825792280noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-91938568452558081562016-04-11T06:11:59.419+12:002016-04-11T06:11:59.419+12:00Hi Anton
I am using your guide to practise on a 15...Hi Anton<br />I am using your guide to practise on a 150 before tackling my more valued Arcam Alpha plus.<br /><br />I have made a BOI using your list as a start but checking each component against the actual boards. In doing this I have come across a discrepancy. I would be grateful for your advice as I don't have enough knowledge to make sense of it.<br /><br />You list cap 2127 on the servo board with 2138 and 2140 as 220u/10v. On my board 2127 is 47u/10v. On the negative side it is attached to 2 resistors in series with a connection to a pcb track between the resistors. On the positive it is attached to one resistor and to a pcb track. (If it is relevant, 2138 and 2140 are 220u/16v vs 10v).<br /><br />The 2127 cap has a coating of a white dusty residue so I assume it is failing. (Likewise the bipolar 1.5u/50v on the servo and 2 0f the 47u/10v on the main board) However the cd player reads and plays discs well and sounds pretty good.<br /><br />I am not sure if the values you gave for 2127 were a typo or if the cap value might vary if attached to different resistors? I assume that I should replace 2127 with the same values as on my board ie 47u/10v but I would be grateful for your advice.<br /><br />Thanks and best wishes,<br />Martinderryvolgiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06139226275825792280noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-67355939436644020672015-11-27T23:57:20.298+13:002015-11-27T23:57:20.298+13:008.4Ω is a bit high, and needs replacing, that'...8.4Ω is a bit high, and needs replacing, that's probably about twice what is was when it was new. The others do seem fine, assuming the meter is accurate. Did the CDP's behavior change at all after replacing the 47µF/25V capacitor?<br /><br />I myself would still replace the rest of the electrolytic capacitors in the CDP, but it's not necessarily critical to the repair.<br /><br />The next step I would take is checking the laser power and focus offset adjustments and measuring the laser current (via the voltage drop over 3101, a 12Ω resistor).<br /><br />Let me know how you go,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-48675638505627611292015-11-14T14:28:28.938+13:002015-11-14T14:28:28.938+13:00Hi Virgil,
When you say 'all checked fine on ...Hi Virgil,<br /><br />When you say 'all checked fine on a capacitance meter', what were you checking? The issue with these capacitors is not a loss of capacitance, but an increase in equivalent series resistance (ESR). They'll check out okay using the capacitance mode on a regular multimeter, an LCR meter is needed to check the ESR and get an accurate picture of the health of the capacitors.<br /><br />In any case, I'd replace them anyway. They've either failed, or are close to failure.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-90212683178340573882014-05-26T17:32:00.817+12:002014-05-26T17:32:00.817+12:00Hi Richard,
Capacitors 2330 and 2331 aren't b...Hi Richard,<br /><br />Capacitors 2330 and 2331 aren't back bias supply decoupling capacitors. The output current of the TDA1540 (and TDA1541) is offset, ranging from 0 to -4mA, with silence being -2mA. Resistors 3330 to 3333 are connected to a positive supply, drawing roughly enough current out of the DAC's output to shift the silence current to 0mA. 2330 and 2331 form filters with those resistors to ensure that noise from that positive supply doesn't make its way into the output node.<br /><br />The back bias supply on the digital ICs used in the CD150 is completely unrelated. Back biasing was a technique to reduce the rather horrific power consumption of these older ICs. Very little current is drawn from the VBB supply, I wouldn't worry about it.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-58169400922489822862014-05-07T15:36:24.166+12:002014-05-07T15:36:24.166+12:00Hi Anton,
I read with interest your blog on cd150 ...Hi Anton,<br />I read with interest your blog on cd150 modding, as I have a cd350 with almost identical main pcb and have refreshed capacitors in the power supply area with panny FM/FC and swapped the DC blocking caps for muse ES types with great results ! I am now concentrating my efforts on the DACs and other digital chips, which I am treating to some low impedance types (rubycon ZLG) close to their power supply pins - as from my understanding these low esr types help to fill in any gaps in voltage fluctuations caused by the chips internal switching noise, am I going about this in the right way ?<br />Also you mention caps 2330/2331 as per TDA1540 datasheet being part of the back bias supply voltage circuit and low impedance types being important here too, but I don't understand why ? Some other chips on this player have a similar back bias circuit, would low esr types help "tune" these chips too ??<br />All suggestions greatly appreciated - thank you.<br />Richard.richardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06733062805577399227noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-27451943949080635032014-02-01T16:37:02.749+13:002014-02-01T16:37:02.749+13:00Hi Dirk,
The transformer will hum when heavily lo...Hi Dirk,<br /><br />The transformer will hum when heavily loaded, if this happens again you should immediately unplug the player. I hope it hasn't been damaged, as it's a hard part to replace.<br /><br />A properly working capacitor when measured with a ohmmeter should initially read low resistance, increasing until it reads open circuit. If by "no resistance" you mean 0Ω, then that's a problem. The TO-220 device attached to the heatsink is a voltage regulator rather than a transistor, and it's most likely okay. I'll contact you with more information.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-25486042541037692542014-02-01T16:29:55.626+13:002014-02-01T16:29:55.626+13:00Reply with next question below.Reply with next question below.Antonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-77963266178214652014-01-29T05:04:31.781+13:002014-01-29T05:04:31.781+13:00hi,
today i found that the biggest of the capacita...hi,<br />today i found that the biggest of the capacitators (6800µF 16V) has no resistance. my multimeter said that current is going through in both directions. i guess it must be reason, isn`t it? i hope the transistor that is fixed to the aluminium cooler survived - it will be tested at the shop where i get my spare parts. what do you say to this diagnosis? email to: dirkwalter@online.de<br />regardsAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-62733405338050320032014-01-28T22:46:11.966+13:002014-01-28T22:46:11.966+13:00hi and thank you,
guess it will be hard to find th...hi and thank you,<br />guess it will be hard to find the mistake. is it possible that the transformator is shorted, because it made a humming noise before the diodes began to smoke. i would be glad if you can send me the plan for the cd 150. here my email: dirkwalter@online.de<br /><br />regardsAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-35170387825920583082014-01-24T18:31:13.539+13:002014-01-24T18:31:13.539+13:00Hi Dirk,
I'd expect to find something shorted...Hi Dirk,<br /><br />I'd expect to find something shorted on the power supply rail that those diodes are part of. Before ordering spares you'll need to find exactly which diodes have overheated, what they're supplying and what is shorted. It's probably something on one of the unregulated supplies, as the current limiting function of the regulators would have prevented this happening on a regulated supply.<br /><br />It'd be best to email me directly for more detailed information, just leave me your address.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-38206214490911808272014-01-24T10:31:11.935+13:002014-01-24T10:31:11.935+13:00hi anton,
i recently received an cd 150 and when i...hi anton,<br />i recently received an cd 150 and when i turned it on, the diodes (of the power supply i guess) began to smoke. i tried to find a plan of this apparatus to see, which spare parts i need without success. maybe you can help me. my idea was to turn off the oversampling for more delicious audio, but now i have to fix this problem first - what may be the reason for the diodes to burn up in smoke and what type of parts do i need?<br />i hope you answer - best regards, dirkAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-78970816203524706592013-11-16T14:51:18.111+13:002013-11-16T14:51:18.111+13:00It's not something I always change, but it'...It's not something I always change, but it's not a bad idea. I would use an MBR1100, there's nothing special about these, they're just the standard 1A schottky diode I use.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-17517794975026945572013-11-09T23:44:59.118+13:002013-11-09T23:44:59.118+13:00Hello Anton. Thanks for your very interesting tuto...Hello Anton. Thanks for your very interesting tutorial. I get a Philips CD150 from a friend and want to modify it. I also shot a Philips CD 720 for less than 20€ including shipping and was impressed about his sound. It's sounds better than my old one and better than the CD150. <br />What do you think about changing the diode to schottky type? Which ones would you choose?<br /><br />Greetings,<br />MikeAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01314490230826055276noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-58424099185081816952013-06-03T15:54:32.960+12:002013-06-03T15:54:32.960+12:00Yeah, while the site is very useful, his observati...Yeah, while the site is very useful, his observations on sound quality don't line up with my own. Besides that, I chose players for their build quality as well as sound quality.<br /><br />My email is shown on my Blogger profile.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-58624186903875773492013-06-03T13:44:32.171+12:002013-06-03T13:44:32.171+12:00Hi Anton - simple answer to why - this guy raves o...Hi Anton - simple answer to why - this guy raves over the DAC either stock or tubed.<br />http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/REFERENCES/Marantz%20CD5000/marantz5000.html<br />Of course its a matter of personal taste for sound but he was my main reason. <br />Re email - how do we do that?<br /><br />-PaulUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03277001405204532937noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-75474553084970283192013-06-03T12:14:03.273+12:002013-06-03T12:14:03.273+12:00Hi Paul,
The tube output stage sounded very good,...Hi Paul,<br /><br />The tube output stage sounded very good, my criticism was that the same thing could be achieved by other means without the bulk, heat and high power requirements of tubes. The space and heat aren't going to be a problem in a CD5000 though.<br /><br />Apart from the space, I'm not sure why you chose a Marantz CD5000. That's a very cheap player with a fairly mediocre DAC. That's not to say you won't be able to make it sound okay, but when I put a lot of time and effort into a player I prefer to start with something better.<br /><br />I do still have PCBs for my clock available.<br /><br />I'm happy to help you with this project, but it might be better to do it by email rather than here.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />AntonAntonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17257763437856180723noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2973773729218445890.post-24460206450563525532013-06-03T11:03:10.832+12:002013-06-03T11:03:10.832+12:00Hi Anton - I am making progress. Picked up a one o...Hi Anton - I am making progress. Picked up a one owner Marantz CD5000 - I will enjoy it stock for a while but have decided that rather than have other people do any upgrades I will start the learning curve and have a go myself. Two questions: I gather you are not impressed by adding a tube stage - was there no real benefit, or did a solid state buffer work just as good, or do you think a buffer is not needed. secondly, are your clocks still available, or is there a commercial one you now recommend? Thanks -Paul WUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03277001405204532937noreply@blogger.com