Marantz CD17

The CD17 is a mid to high end CD player that Marantz released at the end of the 90's.  It marked a downward change in the quality of Marantz's top line players, which had previously featured swingarm laser mechanisms, diecast chassis bases, metal loaders and other esoteric features.  The CD17 still looks good from the outside and performs well, but is obviously much more driven by build cost.

The CD17 was available for a number of years in a few variations, as detailed below:

• CD17.  The base model, it uses a CDM12.1 laser mecanism, a SAA7372 servo and decoder, a SM5841 digital filter, a SAA7350 noise shaper, a TDA1547 DAC and an output stage based on NJM2114s and HDAM modules.
• CD17D.  This player uses the same PCB as the CD17 but adds a digital input using a TDA1315 S/P DIF receiver, allowing use of the player as a DAC.  The TDA1315 and its associated parts are not fitted on the regular CD17.
• CD17a / CD17 Mk2.  An updated version of the CD17, it uses a VAM1201 laser mechanism and TDA1307 digital filter (in place of both the SM5841 and SAA7350).  The TDA1307 was designed specifically for the TDA1547, but wasn't found in many players, most used an NPC digital filter and the SAA7350 as a noise shaper and upsampler.  The VAM1201 also allows this player to player CD-RWs.
• CD17Da.  Similar to the CD17D, this player shares the CD17a's PCB but adds a digital input using a TDA1315 S/P DIF receiver.
• CD17 Mk3.  This player is significantly different to the others, using a different digital filter, DAC and output stage.

I've wanted a player using the TDA1547 for some time, but they're not particularly common and are usually fairly expensive.  There are a huge variety of opinions on the sound of this DAC, the last DAC IC that Philips made for the high end market, but in my experience it is very competent.

This particular CD17 was inexpensive as it wasn't working properly, so I bought it to fix.  It was in good physical condition, and in included the original packaging, manual and remote, but would not read a CD.

Unfortunately, unlike its predecessors, which all used swingarm laser mechanisms, the CD17 uses a cheaper CD12.1.  These mechanisms have an inferior lifespan compared to the ones they replaced, so I suspected the laser had failed.  The upside is that replacements for the CDM12.1 are easily available at low cost.  I used a VAM1202, these are a suitable replacement for a CDM12.1.

At this point I removed the existing laser mechanism.  The CD17 is very serviceable, only three screws and two connectors need to be removed to take out the loader, and you don't need to remove the drawer faceplate.  Removing the laser mechanism from the loader is somewhat annoying, it is attached by four rubber grommets which need to be removed with care, as they are easily torn.

On examining the old mechanism I made a foolish decision.  Time and time I have told people to change the whole laser mechanism and not to replace only the laser head.  However, I looked at the old one, and the traverse seemed to be in reasonable condition, with no gear discolouration or apparent wear, so I ignored my own advice and bought a VAM1202 laser head.

On receiving the laser head I fitted it to the old traverse and fitted the mechanism back into the player.  It powered up the player and it immediately read the disc (there is no setup when changing a laser with the SAA7372 based servo, the laser power is factory set on the laser head and the other adjustments are done automatically, a great feature).  All seemed well, but shortly into a listening session it skipped slightly, and continued to do so occasionally throughout the disc, at an average interval of about 5 minutes.  I removed the loader and carefully lubricated the transport again, but that didn't help.

I went back on eBay an purchased another VAM1202, complete with a traverse this time.  I fitted the new complete laser mechanism, the skipping disappeared are the player now works well.  The first laser head isn't a complete waste, as the laser head will serve as a useful spare in case the other fails prematurely, as they sometimes do.

At this point I gave the player a good listening test.  I compared it directly against a Marantz CD16, the CD17's direct predecessor.  The CD16 features a similar chipset, an SAA7310 decoder, SM5803 digital filter, SAA7350 noise shaper and two TDA1547 DACs (one per channel, differential output).  Both CD players sound quite good, but the high frequency output of the CD17 was notably rougher and more metallic than the CD16.

After listening to it I had a think about what I wanted to change on the CD17.  Though this player was built to a budget, it's still higher end than most of the players modified so far in this blog, and many items that I'd normally address just aren't as critical here.  The passives are of generally high quality, and the player isn't as old as many I service, so there isn't the need to replace components due to age.  Here are main things I think could be improved:

• Output stage: As standard, the CD17's output stage is actually quite good.  The passives are of a very high standard, including mica capacitors and what appear to be thin metal film resistors.  The opamps used, one NJM2114 per channel, aren't bad, but they could be improved with more modern types.  I'm not going to change them right now, but it's something I may do at a later time.
• Final output: While the main part of the output stage is good, I'm not so enthusiastic about the final output.  At the output of the 'HDAM' discrete buffer the signal passes through a bipolar electrolytic capacitor, followed by two transistor shunts to ground for muting, a ceramic capacitor to ground and then the outputs.  None of this is ideal, and my plan is to replace this entire section with an auxiliary PCB.  This PCB will include film coupling capacitors, muting relays (a reed relay per channel to shunt the signal to ground) and 100pF polypropylene film capacitors to ground.  All in all the same  functionality, but with less compromise.
• Low jitter clock:  The clock system in this player is far below optimal.  Initially I intend to replace the original clock source, but I also plan to change the clock distribution entirely at some point in the future.

Installing the Clock

At this stage the only thing I've done is install the clock.  I do plan on doing the two other things mentioned above, but at a later date.  I also intend on this section being a loose guide for those who are installing the clocks they bought in the groupbuy.

This first thing I did when installing the clock is familiarise myself with how the clock is generated and distributed in the player.  This was complicated by the fact that this player's service manual is not available.  The manual for the CD17 Mk2 can be downloaded, but it's quite different in some areas.  I've drawn a diagram showing the clock scheme of the CD17 below (items in grey not fitted):

The SAA7372 decoder generates the clock, then buffers it to a 74HC257 multiplexer.  This IC is redundant in models without a S/P DIF input, and is always set to the CD input.  The output of this multiplexer is then fed to both the SM5841 and the SAA7350.  The SAA7350 then divides the clock in two and feeds it to the TDA1547's two clock inputs.  Most players aren't this complex.

Once I had determined where the player's original clock was located on the PCB I decided where to mount the clock PCB.  I picked a place that was clear and as close to the clock as possible.  It's important that the signal cable between the clock and the receiving IC is as short as possible.  This cable shouldn't be more than 150mm.  I drilled holes through the player's chassis and mounted the clock with two M3x6 machine screws and an M3x10 threaded hex spacer at each corner.

To connect the clock into the player I removed C111, C112, R108, R109 and X101, and fed signal to pin 21 of the SAA7372 (XIN).  To do this I prepared a coaxial cable with an SMB connector at one end and separated and tinned ends at the other.  I soldered the centre conductor to the now free crystal pad that connects to pin 21 of the SAA7372.  I scraped the soldermask off a groundplane area next to that pad and soldered the shield to it.  I then secured the joint between the cable and the PCB with glue.

I connected the DC supply to both sides of capacitor C854 (minding polarity).  I installed a snap on ferrite on this cable.  I then rechecked my wiring, powered up the player and ran through a function check.  Job done.

A few things to watch when installing a clock:

• Identify the master clock.  A CD player will often have more than one crystal, but in most cases only one has an impact on the sound quality.  Make sure you're replacing the correct one.
• Check IC voltage tolerance.  Many modern players use ICs that operate from 3.3V power supply rails.  These ICs may not tolerate a 5V level signal, and you may need to build / buy a clock with a 3.3V level output.

Mission PCM7000

The Mission PCM7000 is a player I've already mentioned in this blog; it's the direct predecessor to the Mission PCM2.  The main difference between the two is the player that they are based upon, for the Mission PCM2 it is the Philips CD670, while for the Mission PCM7000 it is the Philips CD650.  Electrically the two players are almost identical, but physically they don't share a chassis, loader or laser mechanism.

The PCM7000 uses the same rather unhelpful variable volume output stage.  It's a resistor attenuator using CMOS switches, which isn't too bad, but it has no non-volatile memory and resets to maximum volume each time the player is power cycled.

As it stands this player is rather lacklustre, similar to the PCM2.  However, it doesn't have the same drawback the PCM2 does; there is actually space for extensive modifications inside the PCM7000.

I intended to remove the variable volume output stage and replace it with a new PCB.  At this stage it'll incorporate the following:

• A digital filter, probably a SAA7220, there aren't many alternatives.
• A DAC, probably still the TDA1541A, as I want to maintain some of the original flavour of the player, but I'm also thinking about using a SM5803 / PCM1701 combination.
• A discrete output, based on either the Pass D1 or EVUL's CEN / SEN.
• Power supplies for all of the above.

I'll write more on this post as I make progress, but it's still in the early stages right now.

Philips CD101

I was quite excited when one of these came up for auction, they're not a particularly common player here in New Zealand.  The Philips CD101 isn't quite the very first Philips player, but it's very similar to the CD100 which was number one.  The two players share the same PCBs and the same frame, but the CD100 uses a CDM-0 laser mechanism and the CD101 uses a CDM-1.  The graphics and lid design also differ slightly, but overall they're very similar.

The particular example I bought was ideal; it was being sold by the original owner, was in perfect visual condition and included the owner's manual and box, yet wasn't working so was still inexpensive.  When it arrived I plugged it in and found it had the exact symptoms I expected.  It would power on successfully, spin a CD when one was loaded and the play button pressed, but it wouldn't read the CD.  These players, like most (but not all) radial armed players, will only spin a CD once the laser has successfully focused on a disc.  If a player will spin a disc, the laser and focus servo are probably okay.  However, when it tried to read the table of contents of the disc the player would track and the radial arm would run out of control, often hitting the end stop quite hard (rather funny to watch).  This meant that the radial servo wasn't running properly.  The likely cause is the recurring defect with these players; expired electrolytic capacitors.

The particular capacitors that cause the failures in these players is the five on the PCB directly mounted to the laser mechanism.  Two of these are decoupling for the ICs, the remaining three are part of the laser supply.  Most of these aren't paralleled with any other capacitor and really need to perform well for the player to work.

I replaced all five, and unsurprisingly the player worked perfectly.  I went on and replaced every electrolytic in the rest of the player, but only the five needed to replaced for it to work.  In terms of sound quality, this player isn't too bad, but it's certainly not high end.  This player was undoubtedly the best in its day, far better than Sony's efforts, but CD players have come a long way since.  Please don't buy into the hype, these players are good considering their age, but will be beaten by any half decent modern player.

The big surprise about this player was how easy to service it was.  Everything in the player screws into a large aluminium casting.  The outer casing is secured by five screws, once it's removed most of the player is accessible.  I've worked on other Philips players of the period and they were much more awkward.

I didn't modify this CD player as I want to keep it as original as possible.  All of the above photos show the player after I serviced it, with the new capacitors in place.

Below is the player's original box, as per request.

Low Jitter Clock Build Guide

Sorry about the lack of posts recently, I've been occupied with setting up a group buy for my low jitter clock, as well as working on some newer designs.  This post is the build guide for that clock.

To build the clock you're going to need the same tools as any other PCB based electronics project.  It's all through hole, but it's at the finer scale end of through hole, so you are going to need a decent soldering setup and good technique.  If you're using leaded solder, a decent electronic specific plug in iron will do, but if you're using lead free solder a soldering station is recommended.  The clock uses JFETs and other static sensitive devices so you'll need a static safe workstation.  A multimeter and oscilloscope are also useful for checking that the clock is working properly, and are very useful if it isn't.  Of course you'll also need the schematic and bill of materials.

There are two versions of this clock, both sharing the same PCB.  They differ on how they are powered, one has a transformer and is powered directly from 220 to 240VAC mains electricity (called the AC powered version).  The other is smaller, having no transformer, and is powered from a 7 to 20VDC supply, usually an existing supply within a CD player.  The DC version draws about 40mA, most CD players will have a supply that can provide that without issue.  When building the AC powered version components D205 and J202 are not populated, when building the DC powered version components D201 to D204, J201, TX201 and VR201 are not populated.

The bill of materials lists a very specific set of parts.  The column labelled 'Order No.' shows the element 14 (formerly known as Farnell) part number, their site will give the details and data sheet on each part.  Here are some comments on parts:

• Film capacitors: Parts C101 to  C105 are all Wima FKP2, a stacked polypropylene film and foil type.  These are a very high performance capacitor that still have a small footprint.  I'd stick to these, other film types may be too large, ceramic types will fit but won't perform as well.  C202, C203 C205, C208 and C211 are decoupling capacitors, any 5mm pitch film capacitor with a thickness of 2.5mm or less will do here.  I used Wima MKS2 stacked metalised polyester  types.
• Electrolytic capacitors: I used Nippon Chemicon KZE low impedance high temperature types, except for C209 which is a KMG general purpose high temperature type.   There are plenty of other good options here, such as the DIY favourite Panasonic FMs and FCs or any equivalents from Nichicon, Elna, Rubycon etc.  Stick to capacitors from a reputable brand and don't use extremely low impedance types (such as OS-CONs or solid polymer types) for C210.  High temperature types are worthwhile, they only cost slightly more and will give better reliability, especially in older power hungry CD players which can run quite warm.
• Diodes: I used MBR1100s for the rectifier (D201 to D204, only used on the AC powered version), similar schottky or soft recovery types will work just as well.  D205 (only used on the DC powered version) is a reverse polarity protection diode, use any 1N400x series diode or leave it out if you like to live dangerously.
• Connectors: J101 and J102 are the output connectors.  The PCB pattern is a standard RF type and will accommodate SMA, SMB, SMC and other RF connectors.  SMB seems to be the defacto standard for clock in audio, so that's what I used, but feel free to use something different.  It's best to use factory made cable with these connector, there's a whole load available cheaply on eBay.  J201 or J202 is the power input connector (which one you use depends on whether you're building an AC or DC powered version).  It's a standard 5mm pitch terminal block pattern, but will fit 5.08mm (0.2") items without any trouble.  I'd recommend the screw cage types over the screw and protector types, they just work better.
• Semiconductors: J309s (Q101 and Q102) and TL431s (U201 and U202) are pretty generic easily available semiconductors, my only advice is to stick to good brands (Fairchild, ST Micro, ON Semi, National etc).  The AD8561 comparator (U101) is proprietary to Analog devices, and is not pin compatible with any other suitable candidates, so there's no choice to make here.  The series regulator (U203) can be any of the xx108x low dropout regulator series (such as LD1085, LM1086 etc).  Make sure you buy an adjustable output voltage version, these come in fixed voltage versions as well.  I chose these not because they are low dropout, but because they have integrated protection diodes.  You can use an LM317, which is pin compatible, but you'll have to tack the protection diodes to the underside of the PCB.
•  Resistors:  I used Welwyn MFR3 0.125W metal film types.  These have body dimensions of 3.5mm long by 2mm diameter, it is essential that this small size is used, the far more common 0.25W types will not fit.  The exception is R101 and R102 which are 10MR.  Generally 0.125W resistors are not available in resistances this high, so 0.25W Welwyn MH25 types are used here.
• Transformer:  The transformer I used is a Myrra 44091.  Its form factor is industry standard, and is compatible with the Block VB1.5/2/6 among others.
• Varistor: VR101 is a varistor (used in the AC power version only) that gives the clock some protection from mains voltage spikes, it is optional.
• Crystal: Obviously a critical component in a crystal oscillator.  Stick to good brands (I use Citizen) and make sure you get the correct frequency for your application.

Apart from being slightly more difficult to solder than other through hole PCBs due to the small size components, construction is fairly straightforward.  I assembled it in the following order:

• First chose the version you are making.  The PCB has a silkscreened line where the PCB can be cut if you are going to build the DC version.  The photos will show an AC version being built.

• Solder in the axial components (resistors and diodes), paying attention to the polarity of the diodes.

• Solder in the film capacitors.

• Solder in the semiconductors except for U203.

• Solder in the electrolytic capacitors.

• Solder in the transformer, U203 and J201 or J202.

• This point is a good place to pause and test a few things.  The two remaining components, U101 and J101 and / or J102 are expensive and cannot be removed once soldered.  You can power the clock up and test the rest of it here.  First you should double check the polarity of the components shown below:

• After checking the polarities power up the clock in a safe manner.  I will not give specific electrical safety advice.  If you are not confident in your ability to work safely with mains electricity do not attempt to assemble the AC powered version of this kit.  Use an oscilloscope to check the points shown below.  A sine wave of the same frequency as the crystal should be visible on the two marked points.  The waveforms at the two points will be of opposite phase.  Check the voltage of the other point with a multimeter, it should be 5V.

• All going well above, solder in U101 and J101 and / or J102.

Hopefully you now have a working low jitter clock.  Thanks to those who participated in the group buy, enjoy your clocks!

Update (06/05/2014):

This design has been around for over three years now, and it was time for the first major redesign.  The main thing I did to improve on the original was to separate the AC power supply from the clock.  I found I barely ever built the AC powered version of this clock because it meant having a mains voltage AC cable running through the middle of the player or a long clock output cable, neither work well.

In this version the clock PCB can sit where it's needed, the AC to DC power supply board can sit with the player's original PSU, and an innocuous DC power cable can cross the player.  Overall the size has increased a little, but the clock on it's own is smaller, and I think overall it's easier to fit into a player.

As for building it, the new version is essentially the same to build; the main exception is the regulator.  In the newer version I've mounted it to the PCB with a machine screw.  It's more robust and lower profile.  It's easy to assemble, just follow these steps:

• Take the regulator and bend the leads 90° right after the step where the leads become narrower (ignore that the pictures show a LM337, it's just the TO-220 device I had to demonstrate with).  Take the supplied M3x10 machine screw and place it through the PCB from below and thread one of the M3 nuts onto it and tighten. 

• Place the LM1085 over the machine screw with its legs inside the pads.  Place the M3 lock washer over the LM1085 onto the machine screw, then thread the second nut onto the top and tighten.  The stack should be: head of M3x10 machine screw, PCB, M3 nut, LM1085 tab, M3 lock washer, M3 nut.

 

• Flip the board over and solder the three pins.

Enjoy this new version of the clock!

Marantz CD72

The Marantz CD72 is the top model in the CDx2 line.  This product is from the era where Marantz was owned by Philips, and hence it uses many Philips made components.  All of the players in this line were of the same configuration; they used a CDM-4/19 laser mechanism, the TDA8808 / TDA8809 servo chipset, the SAA7310 decoder IC, the SM5840 digital filter IC and the SAA7350 noise shaper and DAC IC.  Unlike previous digital filter ICs used by Marantz, the SM5840 does not output a S/P DIF signal.  A separate IC, the PCF3523, is used to format the digital output in this player.

I've never been a huge fan of the early DACs using the 'bitstream' concept.  The SAA7350 used in the CD72 was Philips' second try at making a bitstream DAC IC for audio, the first being the SAA732x family.  Because of the DAC it used I had ignored the CD72 I owned as something not worth spending any effort on.  However, I recently had that opinion reversed by a player using the same DAC IC; a Meridian 602 transport and 606 DAC pair.  This pair was the top of what Meridian offered in the mid '90s, and actually sounded very good.  This prompted me to take a second look at the Marantz CD72.

Given that it seemed that the SAA7350 isn't as deficient as I thought, I looked at where the rest of the player could be improved.  As always, it's not just about which ICs a players is using, it's how they are implemented.  I noted the following ways in which the CD72 could be improved:

• Replacement of the signal filter capacitors.  Like any DAC, the SAA7350 analog output is filtered.  The passives used in this player were picked for economy rather than performance, with ceramic capacitors being used for the smaller values and polyester film capacitors where larger values were needed.  The ceramic capacitors are highly undesirable, they have characteristics which make them totally unsuitable for use in analog signal filtering.  Fortunately all of the smaller capacitors used in this player are through hole with a 5mm pitch, so finding mechanically compatible replacements was easy.  For replacements I used mainly Wima FKP2 series capacitors.  These are a stacked polypropylene film and foil type and give very high performance in this application.

• Addition of  film decoupling capacitors to the opamp supplies.  Strangely the power supplies to the output stage opamps weren't decoupled with film capacitors, only electrolytic capacitors.  Decoupling an opamp's power supplies with film capacitors as well as electrolytic types is not only best practice, it's essential for stable operation if your using an opamp that is even mildly fast.  There was no existing place to mount the film capactors, so I bought some 1206 size surface mount types and mounted the between the pads of the existing electrolytic capacitors underneath the board.  I used AVX CB series capacitors here, a compact PPS (polyphenylene sulphide) film type.  These have good characteristics, but be careful when using them, they have much lower voltage ratings than most other types of film capacitor.
• Addition of a low noise clock.  Please look at my last post for a detailed explanation of why I added a low noise clock to this player.  In addition to reasons generic to all CD players, those which use single bit DACs tend to be more sensitive to jitter.

• I also replaced the output stage opamps and all the player's electrolytic capacitors.  Again, please see my previous posts for the reasoning behind these additions.

 Overall, these modifications pushed this from being a mediocre player relegated to the scrap heap into a pretty good performer.  The harshness that people hate these players for is now gone.  I haven't done everything I could to this player, and I might take it further in the future.  Some things that spring to mind are:

• Better power supplies (at present there is a single rail for each voltage, share between the whole player).
• A discrete output stage.

If it's lucky, this player may get them and be seen here again.

Low Jitter Clocks

Over the last few months I have been developing, building and testing a low noise clock.  I've mentioned it in previous posts, and now it is finally finished.  Before I go into the details of the clock, here's some information on jitter.

Jitter and its effects

When digital audio is played back its speed is controlled by a clock.  In a perfect world the period of each clock cycle would be the same, but in the real world they always vary.  This variance from an ideal clock is called jitter.  The variance causes distortion in the reproduced waveform, as shown below:

The example above isn't particularly dramatic, but it does show how clock errors translate into distortion.  Note that jitter is differences between the length of clock periods, and is quite separate to errors in overall clock frequency.

Sources of jitter

Jitter has two sources:

• A non-ideal clock source.  A CD player, or any other digital audio device, plays back audio according to a master clock.  All real work clocks are non-ideal, but some are closer to ideal than others.  The best way to deal with this source of jitter is to use a clock with as low jitter as possible.
•  Downstream manipulation.  The clock signal is manipulated many times over after leaving the master clock.  It will be divided and buffered many times over as it goes between the different ICs of the digital source.  S/P DIF transmission can add a particularly large amount of jitter due to its complexity.  The best way to avoid this source of jitter is good board layout and a simple clock chain.  Unfortunately, unlike changing a master clock, altering the board layout and clock chain is a very difficult task.

Jitter can also be found as an intrinsic part of audio recoding, this is caused by the same issues, but during the analog to digital conversion.  I won't go any further into this source as nothing can be done about it in a player.


Jitter in master clocks

 The jitter produced by different master clocks varies immensely.  It's hard to tell how much jitter a given clock has, as many won't list any specifications, and those that do will often list specifications that are irrelevant or even misleading.  The list below details most varieties of clock and how they perform (in order of highest to lowest jitter):

• A gate oscillator integrated into one of the CD player's ICs, usually the decoder or digital filter.  Gate oscillators aren't very high performance to begin with, and integrating them into another IC, forcing it to share a noisy supply with that IC, really doesn't help.  These are the most common form of master clock found in CD players.  An example is pictured below:

•  A gate oscillator using a separate IC, usually a 74HC04 or some variety of that IC.  These are slightly higher performance than the former due to separation of power supplies.  An example is pictured below:

•  A single package crystal oscillator, abbreviated to XO (or TCXO and OCXO with added features).  These contain a crystal and an oscillator circuit in a single package.  These are becoming more popular in modern high end CD players.  An example is pictured below:

•  A discrete crystal oscillator circuit.  These can be higher performance that the other types, which all have limitations like size and available voltages.  There is quite a range of circuits in this category.  I couldn't find an example CD player schematic where this class of master clock is used, but I know of a few that do.

This list is just a broad overview.  The best in some classes will be better than the worst in the next class.  A Tent Clock (a single package crystal oscillator) will probably be better than many discrete clocks.  The power supply a clock uses is also very important.  Separate regulation, or even better, a separate transformer winding or transformer will do a clock a world of good.

Chosing a master clock

Master clocks are very hard to chose.  Jitter is specified in a variety of ways, the best of all being a phase noise plot.  The most important aspect for audio is the noise level near the fundamental frequency (within 100Hz).  Many clocks specify noise at 1kHz or 10kHz, this measurement isn't very useful.  Even less useful is accuracy specifications, which don't relate to jitter at all.  Be wary of clocks whose sole specification is something like "Ultra low jitter ±1PPM", which refers to frequency accuracy, which just isn't important for audio.

Since most clock won't provide jitter specifications (even the good ones), I'd recommend choosing a good, well known discrete clock.  These are made by companies such as LC Audio, New Class D, Hagerman and Sercal.  Tentlabs and Burson also make XO based clocks which are worth looking at.  Prices range widely, starting at about USD120 and going up to USD600 or more.

A cheaper alternative is a DIY clock, that's the option I chose.  There are schematics such as Elso Kwak's 'Kwak Klock' that are fairly simple and easily followed.

My own clock, the LJC

Finding the prices for ready made master clocks a bit too high, and not really liking most available DIY circuits, I designed my own.  After a lot of research I decided to use a differential Colpitt's oscillator.  This type of discrete clock has low jitter and good power supply rejection, and is popular in the telecommunications industry.

This is the second clock I designed.  The first was overly large, and though it performed well it was too bulky to fit into most CD player.  This time I made size a focus.  The clock has two versions, a low voltage DC powered one (pictured at the front) which is 32 x 75mm and a mains voltage AC powered one (pictured at the back) which is 32 x 100mm.

The clock has performed well in testing, and provides a very stable output with a good waveshape.  I've tested the clock at most CD player frequencies; 4.2338MHz, 11.2896MHz, 16.9344MHz and 33.8688MHz.  The only frequency I've yet to test is the 1024fs, 45.1584MHz that some newer Sony players use.

I'm about to fit the clock to a Marantz CD72, I'll post listening results along with other modifications to that player soon.

Arcam Alpha

The Arcam Alpha was the first CD players in Arcam's lower cost Alpha line.  This player is based on a Philips model, and uses a Philips mainboard, loader and laser mechanism, but uses a Arcam case, power supply and DAC board.  It shared the same style as contemporary Alpha components, namely the Alpha 1, 2 and 3 integrated amplifiers and the Alpha tuner.  It is not to be confused with the much more modern Alpha One, to which it bares no resemblance.

This player uses a familiar range of ICs; the TDA8808 and TDA8809 servo, the SAA7310 decoder, the SAA7210 digital filter and the TDA1541A DAC IC.  Arcam tapped the I2S line from where it would have entered the mainboard's original DAC IC (a TDA1543), and routes it to an Arcam designed and made DAC board.  This board contains the TDA1541A DAC, the two OP27 and two NE5334 single opamps that form the output stage and two LM317Ts and two LM337Ts that regulate the supplies needed for the DAC IC and output stage opamps.  The board also contains a rectifier bridge and filter capacitor bank.

The sound quality of the player in stock standard form is actually quite good.  The better power supply to the DAC and improved output stage put this CD player a step ahead of many others, such as the previously posted Mission PCM2.  However, as always there is room for improvement.

I've owned two examples of this player, one was an Arcam Alpha, one was an Arcam Alpha +.  There are only a few differences between the two models, specifically:

• The + has Blackgate output capacitors, whereas the regular model uses general purpose types.
• The + adds a pre-regulator to the DAC board supply.
• The connector is keyed opposite on the + compare to the regular model, hence the pinout is reversed.

The particular example pictured, a plain Alpha, I bought in poor condition.  It could only read some CDs, and when playing the few it could play it would often skip.  In previous posts I've often said that electrolytic capacitors should be replaced in players over 20 years old for reliability, and for the Alpha this was the case.  Degraded electrolytic capacitors in the servo caused the player to perform so poorly, and all that was needed was their replacement.

I haven't yet extensively modified this player, it is a work in progress.  I have done the following things:

• Replaced the electrolytic capacitors.  As I said above, this was both to make the player functional and to increase performance.  I used the same combination of Nippon Chemicon KMG, LXZ and PSA series capacitors as I normally do.  For the output coupling (also known as DC blocking) capacitors I used Nichicon ES capacitors.  These are reasonably priced, and are the best coupling capacitor to use where you have limited space.
• Replaced the output stage opamps.  The OP27s and NE5534s were much better than what was used in the average CD player when the Alpha was made, but the state of the art has moved a long way since then.  I replaced them with LME49710s, but this is by no means the only opamps suitable.  This player uses only single opamps, which gives it better channel separation.

 This is another player that will benefit from a low noise clock.  I plan to install one once my newer, more compact clock design is ready.  I have now received the PCBs for it, but I am still waiting on a cople of components.

All up, this player is not too bad in stock form, but can be quite a good performer when upgraded adequately.  It definitely a good base for modifications and worth buying if you see one for sale in the second hand market.